From very small yields of 22 hectoliters per hectare, this wine flirted with perfection on each occasion I tasted it. It is a sensational effort - if you can find it. The wine is dense purple and stunningly rich, with lots of crushed rock and chalky notes from the limestone soils as well as blueberry and black berry liqueur intermixed with some smoky barbecue and an aroma that reminded me of tea-smoked duck. Thick, rich and full, its glycerine and concentration hide some rather lofty tannins This is another prodigious effort from proprietor Michel Gracia - it's just a shame he doesn't make more wine.

A modern, toasty style, but sleek, with the vanilla bean and espresso notes melding nicely into the core of steeped plum and blackberry fruit. The long finish lets the espresso note weave on, with flashes of tobacco, cocoa and licorice snap as well. Best from 2014 through 2024.