The Giacomo Conterno 2017 Barolo Arione is my favorite in a mini vertical from this cru site in Serralunga d'Alba. I prefer the 2017 to the classic 2016 and the wine's inaugural vintage, the 2015. What this vintage has is an ample and generous sense of fullness and stature. These results are impressive, and even imposing to an extent. This is a statement wine that proudly submits multiple layers of black fruit, blackcurrant, cast iron, earth, licorice root and cola. The supportive tannins are well played against the wine's rich texture, natural structure and fruit concentration. The power of a warm vintage and the muscle power of Arione overlap in this special bottle and will carry this wine over extended aging.

The 2017 Barolo Arione is so incredibly distinctive. Heady savory, earthy, lavender and mineral accents wrap around a core of dark Nebbiolo fruit in a potent, muscular Serralunga that speaks with gravitas and authority. There is something mysterious about Arione, something that is not easily understood, but that is very much at the heart of its personality. The depth, presence and tannic clout are Serralunga at its best. I can't wait to check in on the 2017 in another few years, or decades.