(from four different ages of vines ranging from 40 to 90 years old; Boillot's Santenots comes from younger vines): Full medium red. Brooding aromas of blueberry, blackberry and menthol; lots of tiny millerandé berries here. Silky and saline on the palate; deeper than the Santenots but showing less sex appeal and early juiciness to its flavors of dark berries, spices and menthol. But this is chewier and more concentrated and a bit more important on the finish.

The 2013 Volnay 1er Cru les Chevrets errs more toward red fruit than black fruit, unlike Henri Boillot's other premier cru. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit, touches of mocha and leather emerging toward the finish where the new oak is conspicuous at the moment. Give this a couple of years in bottle. It just feels a little conservative compared to others at present.